44 posts tagged wiwt
Thanksgiving Eve birthday dinner for my wife.
Wool-cashmere jacket by Caruso. Full canvas, 3-roll-2, natural shoulders, double vents, patch pockets. Pretty much everything I’ve been looking for in a brown sport coat ever since Derek convinced me I needed one.
The poor lighting and a low-placed camera phone don’t do it justice. The fabric is fuzzy and tweed-like, a deep reddish-chocolate brown with speckles of green and orange. Also, the lapel gorge isn’t nearly as high nor the jacket nearly as short as the picture suggests. Found through my Yoox searches for high-quality menswear.
For a while now, I’ve been wanting to try layering a lighter shawl-collar sweater like this under a sport coat. As I imagined, it’s kind of like a hybrid between a shallow v-neck and a rollneck. I like it.
Shell cordovan and flannel.
What I Wore Yesterday
Stoked that we’re finally experiencing flannel weather here in Northern California.
Wanted to snap the whole outfit last week for a piece about my take on business casual, but never found an opportunity.
Jacket (linen-hemp): MaCo
Shirt: Lands’ End
Square: Drake’s London
Trousers (cotton-linen): Courtesy of Frank and Oak
Slide Buckle (sterling silver): Tiffany & Co., via eBay
Sunday’s outfit came together a little haphazardly.
I started, as I usually do, by looking at the weather forecast, noting that the temperature was expected to top 90°F (32°C). Thus, I opted for a new cotton-linen shirt, courtesy of Emmett London (review coming soon).
My initial instinct was to go with a Pitti-friendly uniform of a lightweight navy blazer and off-white linen trousers, but for whatever reason my mood was more somber. I instead went with a bit of a unicorn in my closet: a linen-hemp sportcoat in a charcoal glen plaid with a rust check. It’s an exquisite jacket from Maco, a house line by Caruso—lightweight, unlined, with soft unpadded shoulders and a 3-roll-2. It would be the perfect jacket for summer if it weren’t for the color, which seems more appropriate for more dour days in fall and winter.
That ended up dictating the rest of what I wore. I thought a lightweight navy tie would be appropriate, so I decided to try an untipped Drake’s wool-silk herringbone tie from Gentlemen’s Footwear that I’d originally planned to save for the coming fall. Thinking that I needed a bit of color, I chose a Drake’s wool-silk kelim print square.
Finding pants that go with a charcoal jacket isn’t easy. I picked the trousers from my brown plaid Lands’ End suit. Plaid on plaid is a questionable choice, but I figured the pattern on the pants is subdued enough to pass as a solid. For shoes I went with my Meermin longwings.
What I ended up with is a bit of a mess. Jacket, shirt, and trouser materials are appropriate for warm weather—tropical-weight wool and linen blends. Tie and square, in contrast, have texture and material more associated with fall. Visually, I think the whole thing comes together and actually looks fairly elegant. Seasonally, the overall palette seems out of place for a warm mid-July day.
I won’t pretend this is the product of conscious rule-breaking begotten by advanced sartorial knowledge. Nor is it a complete disaster. It’s merely incoherent.
I’ve had some people ask about my eHaberdasher Benjamin suit, so I figure I’d post a pic that shows a bit more than my upper chest.
I own the Classico model. As you can see, it features a clean chest and slightly-structured shoulders. The silhouette is very much inspired by Canali, but with a lower button stance. Coupled with the shoulder-height gorge, that makes for a longer lapel line that’s especially flattering on shorter men like myself.
The suit features full-canvas construction; pretty impressive given the $525 price tag. I’m not well-versed in identifying handwork, but the jacket features pick-stitching throughout and a tightly-wound boutonnière loop to complement the open lapel buttonhole.
The fit is fairly slim—I sized up one for the trousers since the standard size was too tight in the thighs on me. This is also a pre-lunch shot—there was a bit more pull at the button after I had something to eat.
Obviously, the arms can use a bit of clean up, and I probably should have had the tailor shorten the sleeves a tad. But these don’t bother me too much.
Overall, I’m very happy with the suit. I’m in the market for a new staple navy suit, and probably will go with Benjamin again. They’re out of Classicos in my size, but plan to introduce a new “Napoli” model soon that features minimally-padded, slightly-roped shoulders. Sounds pretty awesome, if you ask me.
Sorry for the poor phone camera lighting. Tried cleaning it up a bit, but it’s still pretty bad—the shirt is a light blue striped Borrelli, and the tie is a forest green grenadine from Chipp.
Once again in a semi-official capacity, but the weather is much nicer today, so no linen shirt necessary. Opted to skew more toward formal wedding attire—navy suit, silver tie, white shirt. French cuffs, too, a bit of a rarity for me.
My job this morning does involve trudging around in wet grass, so instead of black cap-toe oxfords I went with dark brown suede chukkas with a Dainite sole. And since my staple navy wool suit is out of comission, I went with cotton-linen instead.
Shirt—Ralph Lauren Purple Label (StyleForum B&S)
Long week’s over.
What the heck, are these chinos really this baggy?
My wife and I just got back from a relaxing 24-hour getaway to the Sonoma Valley, for what we described as a “Birthday-Birthday-Babymoon-Anniversary” Trip. It was my way to make up for not really getting a chance to celebrate her birthday (in November), celebrating my birthday (today!), getting a break in before the birth of our second child, and celebrating our 5th anniversary a few months early since it falls within days of said second child’s due date (late July). Phew.
We packed light—a single duffel for both of us—and I used the opportunity to road test two pairs of pants I received courtesy of Khaki’s of Carmel. Part of an in-house line developed by owner Jim Ockert, they’re both tailored in New York City with a not-too-full, not-too-slim classic fit.
For the hour-and-a-half drive down to Sonoma, I wore a blue gingham buttondown collar shirt and these amazing dress chinos from Khaki’s, made from a British dress twill in a beautifully rich golden brown. The fabric is sturdy and dense, holding a crease well if you want to dress them up, but after a few washes I’ve taken to wearing them unpressed and a little rumpled.
For dinner, I threw on an unstructured blazer and changed into Khaki’s grey wool-cashmere dress trousers. I was a bit worried about folding them into the duffel, honestly, as I didn’t know if I’d have time to iron them. Amazingly, they came out of the duffel unwrinkled, a testament to the quality of the fabric. They look a bit messy below the knee, but that’s because they’re catching on my over-the-calf socks, a weird problem I have due to my biggish calves. To be frank, I should’ve known better than to pack OTC socks. Sockless, the trousers drape beautifully.
The next day, or itinerary was simple: explore downtown Sonoma, grab a nice lunch, and then head home. I was back in the Khaki’s dress chinos, but this time with a polo.
What I Wore
Dress chinos and wool-cashmere trousers: Courtesy of Khaki’s of Carmel
Pocket Square: Hermès (eBay)
Shirt: Courtesy of Hucklebury
Polo: Kent Wang
WIWT: Americana … Sort of.
Great American brands, but not all made in America.
Flannel Blazer: Gant (USA)
Pinpoint Buttondown Collar Shirt: Brooks Brothers (Malaysia)
Cashmere-Silk Tie: Robert Talbott “Best of Class” (Italy)
Flannel Trousers: Howard Yount (Italy)
Shoes: Allen Edmonds (USA)
Locked myself out of the house.
Hence, the odd expression as I waited for my wife to come home and let me in. (Yes, the garage door was locked. Yes, we have a Star Trek poster in our garage. What?)
Looking at this picture, I wish I’d gone up a size for the Club Monaco jacket. It doesn’t fit too tightly, but I would’ve liked more room to layer underneath, and slightly more length.
The trousers are courtesy of J. Lawrence Khaki’s of Carmel. From their house label, the construction and details are superb—at least comparable to the Howard Yount and Epaulet trousers I’ve handled (some would say the Khaki’s are superior).
The fabric is a sturdy British dress twill in a rich golden khaki (as you’d expect, iPhone photography doesn’t do it justice). I’m wearing their classic fit, which is a bit fuller than current #menswear tastes, but I rather like it—it accommodates my larger thighs and, erm, derriere, without bagginess or the dreaded “diaper butt.” You can see it runs a bit long here, but I haven’t put these through the wash yet — I figure they’ll shrink down to the right inseam length after this week’s load of laundry.
Commute kit, Part 2.
I picked up this Brooks Brothers cashmere cable-knit sweater on eBay just over a year ago. Made in Scotland of Italian cashmere, similar sweaters regularly retail for around $400 at Brooks Brothers. I don’t recall exactly what I paid, but it was well south of $100.
On first receiving the sweater, I was surprised to find how short the sleeves and torso measure. My guess is that a previous owner accidentally ran the sweater through the wash, causing it to shrink. As you can see, that actually worked out nicely for my shorter-than-standard arms and torso, though I’d like it to be a smidge longer in the body to keep it from hiking up. Washing the sweater doesn’t seem to have otherwise affected it, as it remains warm, tightly-knit, and fairly pill-resistant.
That Drake’s Knot.
I don’t know enough about tie construction to explain why ties from Drake’s London consistently and easily make such beautiful knots.
I just know they do.
At least by Californian standards, with highs in the mid-forties and overnight lows dipping into the twenties. Accordingly, yesterday I opted for heavy flannel trousers, part of a suit from Samuelsohn that I picked up on eBay—figure Canadians know a thing or two about dressing for the cold. Wool fairisle socks from Lands’ End Canvas kept my toes toasty.
Up top I wore a barleycorn tweed jacket from Paul Stuart. Another fortuitous eBay find—full canvas construction, with soft shoulders, slightly-bellied lapels and horn buttons in a lambswool fabric sourced from France. I bought it for around $70, thinking it was navy, only to find it’s a lighter color my wife identifies as “petrol blue.” Up close, the weave reveals a rich variety of colors.
Under the jacket, I wore a light blue buttondown collar shirt and a Club Monaco merino sweater (a great value on sale). It occurs to me that this is a variation of the Italian background, with the light blue and navy offering a subdued complement to the more adventurous jacket.
Surprisingly, wearing a topcoat proved unnecessary, as this was all I needed to stay warm. Well, this and gloves. And shoes.
Think I need to get these pants tapered. One of the things about being 5’7” is that hemming unfinished trousers involves chopping 8” or more from the bottom, which can add as much as an inch to the original leg opening. When I forget to specify tapering at the tailor, they splay out as you see above.
At least, that’s what I think is going on. Thoughts?