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Ohhhh, best sub-$300 NON-tassel loafer

That’s what I get for queuing question answers late into the night.

Here’s the original question:

Best sub $300 non-tassle loafers? Under $200 would be ideal—really looking for the best value. Any thoughts on Mashburn non-italian loafers? Meermin?

To which I answered, the Allen Edmonds Grayson, which is

  1. A tassel loafer (doh!), but
  2. Still a great deal for $200 shipped.

For non-tassel loafers, I think Meermin’s Classic Collection loafers in Dark Brown Calf, Brown Suede, and Light Brown Calf are the best value at about $225 shipped to the US.

From the description, I expect Sid’s loafers are made by Rancourt in Maine. Nice shoes, but I’d personally pick the Meermins for $70 less.

For under $200, try eBay—you can use my shoe search here and filter for loafers in your size. I particularly like the Allen Edmonds Patriot in brown—for some reason, there seems to be a decent supply in good condition on the ‘Bay right now, so they’re going for pretty cheap. I think they’re the shoes in Kiyoshi’s Khaki’s post last week.

Many of you have been asking how the Meermins turned out, so here’s a few pics of them freshly unboxed.

I think I’d answer most of the questions I’m getting by giving details on my order. I asked for Meermin’s standard longwing brogue with a double sole and light brown shell cordovan for the uppers. Regarding sizing, I’m an US 8.5D, ordered a UK 7.5, and find the fit is snug and comfortable. I think there’s a negligible amount of slipping in the heel, but I honestly don’t notice it after walking around for a bit.

Although I initially asked for a different last, Pepe informed me that longwing brogues are only available on the Rui last (see a comparison of Meermin’s lasts). I was bummed when he told me about that limitation, since the Rui seemed a bit too stubby for what I wanted. However, as you can tell from the pictures, I found that’s it’s still quite sleek, more so than the Allen Edmonds 5 last (on which the Park Avenue and Strand are built), but still sturdy enough to be worthy of a longwing brogue, if that makes sense. I wanted a shoe that works just as well with jeans as it would with tailored trousers, and my Meermins perform admirably in that capacity. These shoes aren’t gunboats, but they’re not dainty, either. I’m quite satisfied with the Rui last, and I keep thinking it would be superb made up as a dress boot.

Perhaps that will be my next Meermin order.

Meermin MTO

A few months ago, encouraged by glowing reviews, I sent a tentative email to Pepe Albaladejo, proprietor of Meermin, thus starting my first venture into made-to-order footwear.

Most of you have heard of Meermin, no doubt—the company is by now the big little secret of #menswear enthusiasts the world over. Based off the coast of Spain on the island of Mallorca, Meermin draws on the isle’s long tradition of shoemaking to create world-class shoes, boots, belts, and soon, bags. With part of the production process in China, Meermin is able to pass on significant cost savings to their customers, resulting in incredible value—their shoes are often compared favorably with models from more renowned makers that retail for double Meermin’s asking price.

Meermin’s also well-regarded for their robust made-to-order program, with some truly stunning creations on behalf of their customers. When I contacted Pepe, however, I inquired about something a bit more reserved—shell cordovan longwings from their hand-welted Linnea Maestro collection, but substituting a light brown shell cordovan leather for the standard burgundy.

Pepe quickly responded that my request was no problem, and in the subsequent emails back and forth I found him to be affable, courteous, and thorough. He spent considerable time checking and rechecking my foot measurements, providing detailed instructions and even a diagram to make sure they were accurate. Being separated by thousands of miles is obviously not ideal for any made-to-order venture, so I appreciated Pepe’s personal and painstaking attention to detail.

In the interest of full disclosure, I should note that Pepe offered me a discount since he knows and likes this blog (I’m flattered!). I don’t know if this led to special treatment on Pepe’s part, but from what I’ve read, Meermin extends a high level of service to all customers.

Recognizing that others might be curious about this experience, shortly after completing my order I asked Pepe if he could send photos of my shoes during the production process.  He responded that he’d try, but couldn’t promise anything—I suspect due to the volume of orders they’ve been receiving as word-of-mouth about Meermin spreads.  Already appreciative of Pepe’s graciousness, I told him not to worry about it and focus on what Meermin does best—making excellent shoes.

Pepe followed through, anyways. After a few months of eager anticipation, he sent me an email yesterday with great news: my shoes were lasted and waiting to be welted. Attached to the email were the above photos of earlier production steps, showing the shoes move from sketches on horsehide to brogued uppers.

It shouldn’t be long now. Thanks, Pepe!