This Fits

Tomorrow Only: 30% off Regularly-Priced Brooks Brothers...

Tue, 21 May 2013 10:14:32 -0700

Tomorrow Only: 30% off Regularly-Priced Brooks Brothers Merchandise for Corporate Members

For one day only on Wednesday May 22nd, Brooks Brothers is doubling the standard Corporate Membership discount to 30%.

If you don’t have corporate membership, you can get one for free by going to this page and entering the following enrollment information:

Organizational ID #: 38801

Organizational Enrollment PIN #: 27789

You should get an email with your member number almost immediately, good for the sale tomorrow, and have a membership card mailed out to you in a few days that you can use in-store.

Unfortunately, the discount doesn’t apply to sale merchandise, but it should apply to their everyday “3 for $225” deal on oxfords, such as the Extra-Slim Fit classic cotton striped OCBD pictured above.

Brooks Brothers ESF oxfords are mainstays in my own wardrobe—I own three in solid blue and one in university-striped navy. I actually wish I’d gone with the reverse (three striped, one solid), since I think the lighter appearance of the striped shirts looks better against my darker complexion.

Stacking the 30% Corporate Membership discount with the “3 for $225” deal brings the per shirt price to $52.50, which is not bad, given the sturdy oxford cloth, decent collar roll, and “Made in the USA” provenance. I recommend ordering an inch longer than your normal sleeve length, since the sleeves shrink considerably after a first wash.

Cream Flannel Trousers (via Journal of Style)

Mon, 20 May 2013 11:09:16 -0700

Cream Flannel Trousers

(via Journal of Style)

Dapper Copenhagen Lawyer on a Bicycle (via Journal of Style)

Mon, 20 May 2013 11:07:10 -0700

Dapper Copenhagen Lawyer on a Bicycle

(via Journal of Style)

Nelson at Pockets Menswear hooked my brother up with these...

Mon, 20 May 2013 10:33:00 -0700

Nelson at Pockets Menswear hooked my brother up with these beautiful Gravati wingtips at a steep discount as part of the Pockets closeout sale (mentioned two weeks ago by PTO). Check out the gnarly lacing.

My brother tells me that Nelson exemplified friendly and thoughtful customer service. There are still shoes on sale, but sizing is very limited, so I recommend giving Nelson a call at (214) 368-1167 to see what’s still in stock.

This isn’t the last you’ll hear of great things from Nelson, so be sure to follow him at The Unbuttoned Life.

Reports: Yahoo Board Approves $1.1 Billion Purchase Of Tumblr : NPR

Sun, 19 May 2013 22:55:15 -0700

Reports: Yahoo Board Approves $1.1 Billion Purchase Of Tumblr : NPR:

The deal for the blogging site is designed to attract younger users to the ailing Web portal. The Wall Street Journal is basing its report on unnamed sources close to the situation.

Well … dang.

On Sale at Lands’ End: Tailored Fit SuperNatural Wool...

Fri, 17 May 2013 09:13:31 -0700

On Sale at Lands’ End: Tailored Fit SuperNatural Wool Suit, $203 Shipped

From $423. Use promo code SPARK, PIN 1315 for 30% off sale price.

For anyone interested in the Lands’ End suit I recently reviewed, select patterns are now on sale, including the “Toast Glen Plaid” color Lands’ End sent to me. With their current “30% off everything” promo, that makes the suit $203 shipped, certainly an enticing pricepoint.

The jacket is linked above; trousers are available here.

downeastandout: Kent Wang Handgrade Brogues Full-grain, Ilcea...

Thu, 16 May 2013 18:03:22 -0700

downeastandout:

Kent Wang Handgrade Brogues

Full-grain, Ilcea Radica Itailan box calfskin with mottled antiquing. Traditional English design and styling. Goodyear-welted construction. Channeled soles. Fiddleback waist.

These almost sound too good to be true for the price…Would love to see them in person.

Seriously.

Good morning! I have a big job interview tomorrow. I was told by the employee that contacted me to dress sharp. So I was wondering what I should wear. And kahaki or black pants? Thanks for the help! :)

Wed, 15 May 2013 11:03:00 -0700

Thanks for the question.

Since they’re asking you to dress sharp, I’ll assume it’s a typical office job. Ideally, you should wear a suit in navy or charcoal grey, with a light-colored shirt, dark tie (solid or a subdued pattern), and dark shoes.

If you don’t own a suit, wear the same shirt, tie, and shoes, substitute a blazer for the suit jacket and grey or khaki trousers for the suit pants.

If you don’t own a blazer, you’ll get by wearing the above outfit without one. Make sure shirt and tie are crisply ironed.

If you don’t own a light-colored shirt, dark tie, or dark dress shoes, wear the best substitute you own.

Whatever you do over the next 24 hours, don’t spend too much time thinking about what you’re going to wear, and definitely don’t go shopping for any clothes you think you might need for the interview. That time is far better spent focusing on what matters to the employer, anticipating what questions they’ll ask, and practicing your responses so that you can deliver them crisply, succinctly, and without hesitation.

Watch the interview scene from The Pursuit of Happyness. While what you wear matters, it’s far more important to demonstrate honesty, integrity, punctuality, reliability, and resourcefulness.

Hey Aliotsy, no question, just a thank you on the Della Ciana recommendation. I had to go through your link to access the sweaters because I couldn't find it through a Yoox search. But damn, I'm blown away with the quality. I bought two for next fall. They're a nice mix between a merino and lambswool weight-wise, and the fit is outstanding. Good looks.

Wed, 15 May 2013 08:38:31 -0700

Messages like this totally make my day. Thank you!

For anyone interested in these sweaters (a great deal at $55), there’s still a few available here.

As noted earlier, be aware that these are final sale, so no returns. You can see the original post here and more feedback on the sweaters here.

meerminshoes: Finally The Museum Calf MTO group buy delivered!...

Mon, 13 May 2013 15:05:25 -0700

Solid brass Hand pegged monogram

meerminshoes:

Finally The Museum Calf MTO group buy delivered!

102480 - Punched cap toe Oxford - Dark Brown Museum Calf - Olfe last - Purple calf Lining

Thank you guys for your support. We really hope you’ll enjoy wearing them!

Beautiful.

Had a chance to go in on these, but bowed out to direct the funds toward my Peal & Co. shell cordovan boots. Pretty sure that was the right choice, but I won’t pretend that I don’t have some regrets.

Alfred Sargent. Handcrafted Footwear. Made in Northampton...

Fri, 03 May 2013 09:13:00 -0700

Alfred Sargent. Handcrafted Footwear. Made in Northampton England.

Beautifully-filmed promotional piece. It’s easy to be cynical about these things, but I think the cinematography and music help convey some of the romance and wonder that draws those who have “a genuine appreciation of the history and aesthetics of men’s clothing and quality craftsmanship”.

(via A Fine Pair of Shoes)

Sonoma My wife and I just got back from a relaxing 24-hour...

Thu, 02 May 2013 09:13:34 -0700

Sonoma

My wife and I just got back from a relaxing 24-hour getaway to the Sonoma Valley, for what we described as a “Birthday-Birthday-Babymoon-Anniversary” Trip. It was my way to make up for not really getting a chance to celebrate her birthday (in November), celebrating my birthday (today!), getting a break in before the birth of our second child, and celebrating our 5th anniversary a few months early since it falls within days of said second child’s due date (late July). Phew.

We packed light—a single duffel for both of us—and I used the opportunity to road test two pairs of pants I received courtesy of Khaki’s of Carmel. Part of an in-house line developed by owner Jim Ockert, they’re both tailored in New York City with a not-too-full, not-too-slim classic fit.

For the hour-and-a-half drive down to Sonoma, I wore a blue gingham buttondown collar shirt and these amazing dress chinos from Khaki’s, made from a British dress twill in a beautifully rich golden brown. The fabric is sturdy and dense, holding a crease well if you want to dress them up, but after a few washes I’ve taken to wearing them unpressed and a little rumpled.

For dinner, I threw on an unstructured blazer and changed into Khaki’s grey wool-cashmere dress trousers. I was a bit worried about folding them into the duffel, honestly, as I didn’t know if I’d have time to iron them. Amazingly, they came out of the duffel unwrinkled, a testament to the quality of the fabric. They look a bit messy below the knee, but that’s because they’re catching on my over-the-calf socks, a weird problem I have due to my biggish calves. To be frank, I should’ve known better than to pack OTC socks. Sockless, the trousers drape beautifully.

The next day, or itinerary was simple: explore downtown Sonoma, grab a nice lunch, and then head home. I was back in the Khaki’s dress chinos, but this time with a polo.

Pictured above: View near our room at the Kenwood Inn & Spa; antipasto misto at Della Santina’s; fireplace in our room at the Kenwood Inn & Spa

What I Wore

Dress chinos and wool-cashmere trousers: Courtesy of Khaki’s of Carmel

Blazer: Boglioli

Pocket Square: Hermès (eBay)

Shirt: Courtesy of Hucklebury

Polo: Kent Wang

Boots: Loake

I am interested in the Benjamin Sartorial Dark Navy Classico suit from eHABERDASHER. However, I am worried that the Super 140s wool may not be durable after repeated wear (2-3 times per week)?. Do you recommend I buy a suit with a lower thread count?

Mon, 29 Apr 2013 09:13:28 -0700

I’m not sure.

I’ve only owned the Benjamin Classico for less than a year, and since my lifestyle doesn’t require wearing a suit very often, I think it’s been worn less than a dozen times.

Conventional wisdom, and my understanding, is that a higher S-number means a more delicate and less durable wool, but that may not always be the case. There’s a long but interesting repost of a Wall Street Journal story on S-numbers about seven posts into this StyleForum thread. At the bottom they test the durability and wrinkle-resistance of various suits in a lab, and find that S-number doesn’t necessarily correspond to greater fabric strength.

It’s may be worth asking your question in the eHaberdasher SF affiliate thread. I know at least a few of my readers also own the Benjamin suit, as I first found out about it through a reader. So if anyone can speak to the long-term durability of the suit, please send me a message.

Happy Friday, Valet readers!

Fri, 26 Apr 2013 08:46:39 -0700

Thanks to the folks at Valet for the mention of the Lands’ End suit review.

See the “Courtesy Of” tag for more reviews, and be sure to subscribe by RSS or follow me on Tumblr.

Noticing that I’ve been wearing down the heels of my Allen...

Thu, 25 Apr 2013 08:31:51 -0700

Noticing that I’ve been wearing down the heels of my Allen Edmonds penny loafers at an alarming rate, I picked up one of these Florshiem Tienomite boat shoes on MyHabit this week as a second casual shoe for summer.

At $69, I’m not expecting the sort of quality you’d get from Sloops or Car Shoe, especially since it’s well-known that Florsheim’s quality isn’t what it was 20 years ago. That said, I’m hoping that these will hold up a little longer than your typical Sperry or Sebago since they’re from Florsheim’s somewhat higher-end “Limited” line and retail for $130 (they’re still going for that much over at Nordstrom’s). I prefer the cleaner look of the Florsheims, anyways—notice how the lacing runs through the tongue of the shoe, like the above-mentioned Sloops, rather than the vamp, as you’d see on Top-Siders and Docksides.

If you’d like a pair, they’ll be on sale through Friday morning, and there’s still a good range of sizes available in the Cognac color pictured above. Online reviews suggest that these run big, so I went down a half-size. Of course, since MyHabit has free shipping and free returns, it’s risk-free to try two or three pairs to see which fits best.

Well, almost risk-free. Full disclosure: I picked up my pair using MyHabit referral credit. As it turns out, MyHabit doesn’t reimburse referral credit on returns. So if it doesn’t work out for me, the credit’s gone (don’t worry — if you don’t use referral credit, MyHabit will fully reimburse your original method of payment). I’m really hoping the four of you who made the purchase possible by kindly signing up through my referral link didn’t do so in vain.

Speaking of referrals, if you’d like to pick up a pair of these boat shoes and aren’t a member yet, consider signing up for MyHabit through my referral link here.

Where did you get the blazer that you're wearing in your profile picture? I'm really digging it.

Wed, 24 Apr 2013 11:29:00 -0700

Funny, I’m actually wearing it right now. It’s an L.B.M. 1911 cotton herringbone blazer that I picked up on Gilt.

I can’t find the exact model anywhere at the moment, but there’s a bunch of LBM jackets available on Yoox. This one’s closest to the one I have.

Lands' End and the Casual Suit

Tue, 23 Apr 2013 09:15:00 -0700

“Courtesy Of” is a series on This Fits in which I write about products that have been gifted to me for review. While I strive to be objective, I think it’s fairer to you, the readers, if I disclose when I’ve received merchandise for free.

Update: Hi, Valet Readers! Thanks to the folks at Valet for the mention.

See the “Courtesy Of” tag for more reviews, and be sure to subscribe by RSS or follow me on Tumblr.

A zipper is the last thing I expect to write about in a suit review, to say nothing of mentioning it in the opening sentence. But the zipper is a bit unusual on the trousers of the Tailored Fit Supernatural Wool suit that Lands’ End sent me, and it’s a detail that offers insight into the character of the garment.

The zipper, you see, is thick and sturdy, made by YKK. Although this shows Lands’ End didn’t cut corners by going with cheap zippers, that’s not unusual in and of itself. No, what’s strange is that the zipper is there at all. Larger and more substantial than any zipper on any tailored trousers that I’ve encountered, it’s the sort of detail you’d expect if I were reviewing premium denim, rugged outerwear or duffle bags—in other words, not the kind of zipper typically seen on a suit.

I mentioned the zipper to Lands’ End Men’s Design Director J Henley last week. “Menswear relies on details and nuances,” he observed. “Subtlety is rarely lost on a discerning consumer. I like to look beyond the obvious like fabric, color, pattern and fit and focus on details that are often overlooked, or are the first place to cut costs from a garment. In this case, the heavier zipper slider was a result of my disdain for small coil zippers on trousers. I wanted something masculine and a bit stronger.”

I think the zipper works especially well in this context, because it belongs to what is essentially a casual suit. A Suitable Wardrobe’s Will Boehlke strongly advocates for the casual suit, which he defines as something between country and city, between an office suit and an odd jacket. In a brown glen check like the suit I received, it’s a good choice for anything from Fridays at the office to air travel to bumming around on New Years’ Day.

A few features identify this as a casual suit, particularly on the jacket. Most conspicuous are the flapped patch pockets at the hip, a more casual configuration than the typical flapped welt or besom pockets seen on most suits. The patch breast pocket is an even rarer choice for a suit, and further reduces the formality.

In a fun note, J Henley said the breast pocket shape is meant to resemble a chalice, that is, a ceremonial goblet. Here, they raise their glasses to menswear. Cheers!

Less obviously, the jacket lapels and pockets have swelled edges, a sporty detail usually reserved for odd jackets but occasionally seen in casual suits. Also, the natural shoulder style of the jacket is inherently more casual than more structured shoulders seen on suits meant for the office. And the brown glen check of the suit I received is certainly less formal than solid navy, charcoal, or pinstripe fabrics.

Speaking of fabric, I asked J Henley what was so special about Lands’ End’s exclusive SuperNatural wool. He explained that it’s a Super 110’s tropical weight wool with three key characteristics: wrinkle resistance (by using a higher twist yarn), additional stretch (by various washing and shrinking techniques at the fabric-finishing stage), and “Cool Wool”, a finish that enhances wool’s natural hydrophobic characteristics, making it highly breathable and moisture resistant. To me, these all seem like properties that enhance the casual suit role, particularly for travel.

J Henley also let me know that the suit is their take on the classic Chipp suits from the 1960s, mentioning Ivy Style’s post on the subject. “We’re celebrating our 50th Anniversary this year,” he noted. “Lands’ End was started in 1963 by Gary Comer, a true sailor who believed in well-built product. The Chipp suits were a natural influence as we looked to create something that was also connected to that era.”

Since the jacket’s darted, I’m guessing that’s a reference to the natural shoulder, flat front trousers, and slightly fitted silhouette. The lapels are on the narrower side, another characteristic associated with suits of that era, though they’re not quite as narrow as you’d find on J. Crew’s Ludlow. Between the two, I prefer Lands’ End’s more moderate lapels.

J. Henley told me the suit features a new fit introduced less than a year ago, but I found it very similar to the Tailored Fit cotton-linen suit I picked up last summer, which is based off Lands’ End’s old suit block. I wore the latter suit yesterday (linen weather in April … sheesh), and found that the wool suit offers considerably better range of motion. I’m not sure if that’s a result of a different cut or the additional stretch of the SuperNatural wool, but it’s noticeably more comfortable to wear. Not surprisingly, I like the fit quite a bit. It’s snug in the shoulders and nicely nipped at the waist. All my tailor had to do was hem the sleeves and trousers. My one criticism is the low armholes, which seem at odds with the slim silhouette.

As a 5’7” guy, I also appreciate how the high lapel gorge and lower button stance lengthens my torso, while the shorter jacket means I can get away with wearing a 38 Regular (though I encourage Lands’ End to introduce Short sizing for their Tailored Fit suits). The trousers comfortably accommodate my disproportionately large thighs while remaining respectably slim.

So how does one wear a casual suit? I’d originally requested a grey herringbone suit if possible, so at first I wasn’t quite sure what to wear with what I received instead—“Toast Glen Plaid,” a grayish-olive-brown glen check with light blue windowpane overcheck.

Not one to look a gift horse in the mouth, I started with the tried and true Italian Background: light blue shirt and navy tie. I generally only wear closed-lace shoes with suits, but in this case I chose dark burgundy pebble-grain longwing bluchers. I thought it worked well with the suit’s somewhat country feel.

Shirt: Brooks Brothers; Tie: Kent Wang; Square: Drake’s London; Shoes: Allen Edmonds

Given the jacket’s sportier features, the suit can be broken up pretty easily. While there’s a slight nap to the fabric, I wouldn’t quite call it flannel, so I think wearing the jacket as a separate works best if the trousers are matte and slightly textured. Here’s one outfit I’ve worn: university stripe OCBD under a navy merino V-neck, light grey flannel trousers and chocolate brown chukkas. I’ve also worn the chukkas and a navy knit tie with the full suit, and I think it looks great, though I’d recommend a dressier chukka like the one pictured, as opposed to, say, Clarks desert boots.

Shirt: Lands’ End; Sweater: Club Monaco; Square: Drake’s London, Trousers: Howard Yount; Boots: Loake

Finally, I’ve worn the pants as odd trousers, seen here in a rather tradly outfit: navy doeskin flannel blazer by Gant, OCBD and vintage tie from Brooks Brothers, and burgundy penny loafers from Allen Edmonds. I’ve also worn this outfit with my light brown shell Meermin longwings, or substituted a V-neck or chunky cardigan for the jacket (without the tie).

Until recently, when people asked me where to get a decent interview or wedding suit on a budget, I recommended the now-discontinued Lands’ End Year’rounder in navy or charcoal. I’m hesitant to recommend this Supernatural Wool suit as a replacement for the Year’rounder for two reasons.

First, I can’t help but wonder if all the features that make this a great casual suit make it too informal for weddings, to say nothing of interviews. I mentioned this to Derek of Die, Workwear! a couple months back, and he countered that in today’s world, most people don’t notice such details. It’s a great point, and at a glance the differences are so subtle, I think most would just see a great-fitting suit. That would stand out at events like a wedding Derek attended where, as he put it, “every guy had 5 breaks in their trousers and jackets that were too big”. In all but the most formal and traditional settings, therefore, this first objection is probably a moot point.

The second reason for concern is price. Where the Year’rounder retailed for $240 and could be had for under $150 on sale, the new Supernatural Wool suits retail for $423. While probably one of the better deals out there on sale (especially during Lands’ End’s rare “40% off everything” events), at full retail there’s some formidable competition. Most notably, for just a bit more, SuitSupply offers dozens of suits with half-canvas construction and fabric from respected European mills. When I mentioned this to Lands’ End’s J. Henley, here’s how he responded:

“We feel this is one of the best-fitting suits, with a unique performance fabric that’s perfect for travel and very lightweight. The make and quality carry our “Guaranteed. Period.” promise. Additionally, we wanted to separate ourselves from the market. I think we did so by creating this suit with patch pockets. Our signature chalice chest pocket hints at yet another masculine detail associated with ceremony and tradition.”

So where does the Lands’ End Supernatural Wool suit belong in a closet? I don’t think I can recommend it as a first or even second suit—better to have those more conservatively-styled, so you’re ready for the formal occasions in life. But on sale, in a world of relaxed dress codes at weddings and workplaces, it makes for a great-fitting option for those times when you want to dress up, but not overdress: in other words, a casual suit.

The Lands’ End SuperNatural Wool Suit is sold as separates, available in Traditional Fit (jacket, trousers) and Tailored Fit (jacket, trousers).

"Timelessness of style is an illusion, a pretention whose claimant is grasping for one of two straw..."

Mon, 22 Apr 2013 11:54:13 -0700

““Timelessness of style is an illusion, a pretention whose claimant is grasping for one of two straw justifications: that an item is timeless because it is not in fashion at the moment and will never become more fashionable; or that an item is so expensive that its buyer damn well hopes it never goes out of style.””

- RJ De Mans

Bespoke blue suit via Journal of Style While fuller-fitting than...

Mon, 22 Apr 2013 10:00:33 -0700

Bespoke blue suit via Journal of Style

While fuller-fitting than what’s fashionable at the moment, this suit projects masculine elegance with its strong shoulders and fitted waist. I’m learning to appreciate that there’s more to fit and silhouette than merely “slim”, and this is a great example.

Camps de Luca’s signature: the hand-sewn teardrop...

Mon, 22 Apr 2013 09:00:37 -0700

Camps de Luca’s signature: the hand-sewn teardrop pocket

For more on Camps de Luca, see Réginald-Jérôme de Mans’ excellent introduction to the bespoke house at A Suitable Wardrobe, including a great video by Dirnelli.

Picture from The Rake.